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Styling is hard work with long nights, lots of brainpower – Dahmola

Styling is hard work with long nights, lots of brainpower – Dahmola

Dahmola is one of Nigeria’s most in-demand stylists, renowned for his sharp sense of style and enduring collaboration with Toke Makinwa, the host of BBNaija S9: The Buzz on Showmax. With a background in costume design and personal styling, Dahmola’s rise in the fashion industry is nothing short of remarkable amid working with top stars like; Simi, Sharon Ooja and Bonang Matheba.

In this interview with Obinna Emelike, he shares career journey, the influence of his mentor, role as a sought-after stylist for top celebrities, among other related issues.

How has your journey in the fashion industry been?

My journey started in 2012 as a fashion intern for Arise Fashion Week, where I met my mentor, Bolaji Animashaun. I started as more of a costume designer, working on TV and film sets like Skinny Girl in Transit and Flawsome. That is how I met most of my celebrity clients, including Sharon Ooja.

Fashion was always my passion, but I didn’t know where to begin. While in school, I stumbled on a call for Arise Fashion Week. I failed my first interview with Bolaji Animashaun, but my determination led me to work with another stylist, Veronica Odeka. Bolaji saw me again, and the rest is history.

I worked with Bolaji for years on projects like Maltina Dancehall. After the lockdown, I shifted focus to personal styling, starting with Sharon Ooja, who became my first big client. Through her, I met Bisola Aiyeola and eventually Toke Makinwa. Sharon’s recommendation opened doors, and that is how my career in personal styling took off. Sharon is my forever queen!

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How did you land the opportunity to style Toke Makinwa?

It all started during the Covid-19 lockdown. I had reached out to Sharon Ooja, whom I worked with on Skinny Girl in Transit. I asked if I could be her stylist, and she was all for it. Sharon became my first big client, and through her, I connected with others, including Toke Makinwa.

At the time, TM, as I like to call her, was already working with another stylist and didn’t know who I was – I only had about 2, 000 followers then. We all worked together on Glamour Girls at the time and when Toke needed a stylist, Sharon recommended me. She was initially unsure, asking, “Who is this guy?”. But one thing led to another and Toke took a chance on me based on that recommendation, and from there, we have built an amazing working relationship.

Styling Toke has been a pivotal moment in my career. She allowed me to prove myself, and I’ll always be grateful for that.

What are some of your top highlights in personal styling and costume design?

Starting with costume design, one of my top highlights is MTV Shuga Season 2 with Tiwa Savage. It was the first major project I worked on and this was with Obijie Oru. People still talk about it today. Then, there is Skinny Girl in Transit. I joined in Season 4, and the show’s fashion really took off. Each season, the looks evolved, and fans were always asking, “What’s Shalewa wearing?”. Another big project was Ayinla, my first epic film, where I worked closely with Ade Bakare. The freedom I had to create looks made it a special experience.

For personal styling, Sharon Ooja’s wedding is a standout. We didn’t expect to break the internet, but that metallic gele took everyone by surprise. Another highlight was styling Bonang Matheba for Miss South Africa this year and Taymesan at the 2023 AMVCAs, where he wore a bold corset and crop jacket. I also styled nine clients for that event, including Sharon, Bisola, Beauty Tukura, and Taymesan, with Beauty winning the Best Dressed award. It was stressful but reaffirmed my confidence in what I do.

Who are some of the fashion stylists, designers, and icons that have influenced your work?

I have drawn inspiration from both local and international figures. Locally, Bolaji Animashaun is my queen, and I admire stylists like Moses Ebite and Uduak, who excel in music videos. I also respect Pat Ada-Eze and Daniel Obasi for their innovative work. I often ask myself, “What would they do?” because fashion is all about reinvention.

Internationally, Law Roach is a huge influence with his confidence and unique style. He embodies the self-belief I aspire to have. In costume design, Yolanda Okereke stands out as the queen, along with OBJ Uru and Uche Nancy from Nollywood’s early days. I am also a fan of Lisa Folawiyo’s modern Ankara designs and Lanre Da Silva’s work. Among younger designers, Vicnate, Fruché, and Lagos Space Programme impress me with their storytelling and craftsmanship.

Read also: Amina Shagari: Redefining fashion with heritage, passion through AminaTheBrand

I wouldn’t have a career without Nigerian designers. Each has contributed uniquely to my journey. Veekee James elevates my sketches to new levels, while Lanre Da Silva is always kind and supportive. T.I. Nathan, Ann Cranberry, and Julyet Peters, known for her women’s suits, are also standout collaborators. The list is endless.

What is your approach when creating a piece for a high-profile client?

It starts with a consultation. You tell me about the event, your ideas, your preferences, and any references you have. Some people come with specific references, while others just have an idea of what they like. I need all that information. After that, I send you mood boards. Once we agree on the looks, I work with illustrators to pull together the different elements to create something unique. Fashion has so many elements, but it always starts with that consultation. Styling for film is different from styling a personality; you have to consider things like colours and the overall mood of the event.

What was your first look with Toke Makinwa?

Toke is definitely one of my top clients. I will never forget our first look—a powder blue body mesh dress for a campaign shoot. We recently did a shoot for her upcoming birthday in November, and it is my favourite look with her so far – Toke 2.0, a side of her no one has seen before. Every look we do together is always memorable, from Miss Nigeria to Mo Abudu’s birthday, and the iconic ginger, an Asian-inspired outfit. She is the ultimate fashion girl, always serving looks.

What is your ideal Toke Makinwa brief?

When styling Toke for BBNaija: The Buzz, my goal is to surprise her with every episode. She owns a lot of shoes and outfits, so I always want to create fresh, unexpected looks. Sometimes, I will bring out items she hasn’t worn in years and incorporate them into her style. This show gives us the perfect opportunity to showcase her wardrobe in a fun way.

For instance, I remember one look she wore that became a sensation almost immediately. That is one of my favourite moments – seeing her pull off a look that makes waves. For that outfit, I stepped out of the usual Lanre Da Silva’s designs, but I felt it was perfect for her.

The key is keeping it fresh and young. I think that is how I approach styling her overall. Whether for TV or other events, my aim is to create trendy looks that are ahead of the curve. A lot of styles I have designed for her become trends afterward, but the real ones know where they saw it first.

How do you balance a client’s personal style with your creative vision when styling?

The key to my work is trust. My clients trust me, and I always make sure I respect each of their unique styles. With Toke Makinwa, for instance, our collaboration is about taking her personal style and elevating it, making it fresher and more in tune with today’s fashion.

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Each client has a distinct style – Toke’s vibe is very different from Sharon’s, and Bonang’s is different from both of them. Even though Toke’s style doesn’t overlap with theirs, I ensure it remains true to who she is. My goal is not to change her style, but to take it a notch higher, adding modern, bold touches while still respecting her identity.

Toke is in an industry where Gen Z is making waves, but she is still very much a young and vibrant woman. So, I incorporate that balance – mature yet playful – showing she can stand out in any crowd, whether she wants to go left or right. It is about staying true to her, while keeping her style fresh and exciting.

What is the most memorable piece you have designed for Toke Makinwa?

One of the most memorable pieces I have styled for Toke Makinwa was her first Veekee James look for the Big Brother Naija finale in 2022. This was before Veekee became as popular as she is now. I remember introducing Toke to Veekee, and at the time, she wasn’t familiar with her work. Veekee even came to Toke’s house for the fitting, but the look didn’t go as planned initially. However, when we tried again, we absolutely nailed it. That is definitely one of my favourites – it felt like we pushed the envelope and set a new standard.

Another standout for me is her AMVCA 2022 look, which went viral the day it was posted. Our first look with the powder blue body mesh dress had 5,000 comments on Instagram that day alone! This blue outfit broke the internet and became iconic, marking one of our first big moments working together, even before The Buzz. I will always love that look for the impact it had.

What do you think is the future of Nigerian fashion, and how do you see your role in shaping it?

I believe the key to moving Nigerian fashion forward is support, whether it is access to resources, opportunities or partnerships. One of the biggest challenges we face is access to designers and fashion pieces. For example, even though I am considered one of the top stylists in Nigeria, I don’t have the same access to high-end designers like a new stylist with star power in America would. It is all about access.

Many stylists and designers are limited by the tough economy. In the past, we could pull pieces from designers, but now, many designers can’t afford to loan items because they aren’t producing as much ready-to-wear. Some have even closed their stores and are working from home, relying on pre-orders instead of stocking pieces.

It is frustrating because, in places like America, stylists can walk into a showroom filled with clothes, shoes, and accessories ready for use. Here, we don’t have that infrastructure. Access to those kinds of resources is available only to the elite, the crème de la crème.

Despite this, I believe in working with what we have. Instead of chasing external brands, we should build our own ecosystem, just like designers in Milan or Paris. The key to growth is more support, funding, and opportunities for both stylists and designers. I always tell upcoming stylists to play the long game – success comes with time.

Read also: Africa Fashion Week Nigeria 2024: Celebrating a Decade of Fashion, Culture, and African Excellence

What advice would you give to young stylists?

My main advice is to do it for the right reasons. Don’t become a stylist because you want to be close to celebrities or because you think it is just about dressing well. Styling is hard work-it involves long nights and a lot of brainpower. It is more than just putting beautiful clothes on people. You need to know the right clothes for the right clients and events, and that requires research and thought.

It is an intentional, curated process. So, take your time to learn and don’t rush to put “Styled by me” on everything. The benefit of working under someone you admire is that you gain knowledge, contacts, and visibility. For example, working with Yolanda opened doors for me. She is the one who took me to Ndani, where I met Sharon Ooja. After she left, they called me to continue the work, and Sharon and I grew together.

Good work brings more work, so you can’t rest on one achievement. It is always about what’s next. I feel like the younger generation do not want to put in the effort sometimes. Back in the day, fashion was exciting – we were just happy to be in the room. Now, you might have assistants more focused on their acrylic nails than holding a dress properly, and you have to wonder, “Are you okay?”.

So, stay focused, work hard, and do it for the love of the craft, not for the glamour.

Who would you say is your dream client and why?

At this point, I feel like I have conquered Africa, but my dream clients would be Beyoncé and Genevieve Nnaji. Locally, Genevieve Nnaji is the one person I haven’t styled yet, and she’s someone I truly admire. Across the whole of Africa, she’s the only name that comes to mind.

Internationally, I would love to style Beyoncé, Angelina Jolie, and Nicole Kidman – these are women I grew up idolising and loving. Each of them embodies a strong sense of style, and it would be a dream to bring my vision to life for them.

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