Lessons from Abidjan

Two years ago, I revisited Abidjan, the capital of Côte D’Ivoire, after a long hiatus. I reported then that there was a flood and some persons died in that devastating flood that led to insane go slows and much suffering by the citizens and visitors alike. Caught up in the horrible storm and a dreary rainy day, I simply stayed put in my hotel and enjoyed the rain from my hotel window. But I also got to attend the conference that took me to Abidjan. I attended this conference at the towering and amazing Abidjan Convention and Exhibition Centre with a capacity of 10,000 people. Incredible! More importantly, it is well kept, beautiful to see in all its glory and grandeur. It really should be the hub of all West African conferences.

But my greatest takeaway from that visit was the fact that we left our yellow cards behind in Nigeria on the advice of one travel agent, and we were stopped at the entry point. Then we were told that we had to take the vaccine. There was no one demanding anything, and so I paid, and a new yellow card was issued. It was very businesslike, if you know what I mean. There was no “mummy-mummy” or I know someone who knows someone. Then there was a big sign at the airport that said No Solicitation and No Giving or Taking.

My second visit last December into 2025 was not a disappointment. I spent Christmas and New Year in the Ivorian capital. My amazement was that there were people touring Abidjan streets from 11 pm till 6 am and taking all the trash out so we all woke up to a clean and fresh Abidjan. My second amazement was that no one solicited.

Room service staff in the hotel appeared to be in a hurry to their next assignment. They never tarried. They were just interested in delivering the food you ordered and moving on. The only time they would turn around is if you called them back for a tip. For them, a simple thank you is good enough. I cannot say the same of some of my countrymen in the service industry. There is always a form of self-entitlement even if you were a tourist. My only snag with public spaces here is hotels, restaurants, and other such places; you have to speak French; hmmm… otherwise, you are on your own. At top-level hotels, from the reception to the gym, it was an effort to find someone who could speak English. But come to think of it, in Nigeria, nobody goes around with a French translator in the hospitality business. But like one famous international airline I know, there should be speakers of at least four international languages at a hotel reception.

Read also: Dateline Abidjan: The senate president and Pathe’O

The Nigerian embassy in Abidjan had a vibe. There were many suggestions from the hard-working staff about where we could go and what to see. One evening, I ended up at Bush Cafe. What a sight to behold. Owned by a former Ivorian diplomat, it was wonderful just to be in this space. Starting with an artisanal chocolatier, we were offered pellets of 75 percent cocoa-infused chocolate and one that was 90 percent. The difference is in the taste. The owner of the space explained that as a cocoa-producing country, they were trying to encourage local chocolates and their own chocolate-making instead of always importing it. 90 percent cocoa was much more bitter, so I opted for 75 percent. It is much healthier with little milk and little sugar. This idea to support cocoa products is Côte’ d’Ivoire-wide. I wake up every morning to a nicely packaged “made in Côte d’Ivoire” bite-size chocolate on my bed after my room has been cleaned. There would be a little note on the package explaining that the product is by artisanal Ivorian chocolatiers. A huge lesson in branding.

As one of the leading haute couture capitals in Africa, every street corner is stocked with some of West Africa’s and leading international fabric brands in amazing motifs with vibrant and fetching colours. The shop show glasses have exciting fashion drapery on mannequins that make you want to explore every fabric store. The drapings gave jaw-dropping designs, mixed motifs that are similar, and mixes of colours that are in tandem.

Every street corner had a patisserie, a truly French idea for pastries and delicacies. I forgot to mention that cakes were decadent, and croissants were as light as air and incredibly delicious.

As a French colony, food is particularly good in Abidjan, from continental to local, and everything is well taken care of. Plantains, which we use as a side in Nigeria, are a main meal and a staple in Abidjan. From Bush Cafe to my resident hotel to the local restaurants and Nigerian restaurants across Abidjan, chicken, fish, and beef are well sautéed for culinary delight. All good, yes. Well, great, to say the least. A really good holiday. One of the greatest lessons learnt in Abidjan is that in Cote d’Ivoire, everyone knows that the law is supreme and everyone knows to keep the law and defer to constituted authority. Anyone you spoke to, from Nigerians to Senegalese to Malians, told you the same thing. The citizens keep the law. Once, a taxi driver told me he could not take a turn; it was a one-way. It looked easy, but he went the longer route. It’s in the simple and big things, but they keep the law. Something to chew on.

Next time, I would do more things, visit more touristic sites, and the Catholic Church in Yamoussoukro. The Basilica of Our Lady of Peace is on my mind. The Guinness Book of Records lists it as the largest church in the world, having surpassed the previous record holder, St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

Overall, it’s great, but be warned: Abidjan is pretty expensive; it has always been, but more so now as the naira dips against the dollar and against the CFA. At some point, I had to stop the calculations.

Enjoy your travels in 2025.