• Saturday, January 11, 2025
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Biochemistry to fashion: Azizah Alawusa’s journey to global recognition

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For Azizah Adunola Alawusa, one of the earliest challenges was transitioning from her background in biochemistry to establishing a renowned fashion brand. With no mentorship or sponsorship, this pursuit required her to learn the fundamentals of design, production, and business management from scratch, which demanded patience in the face of uncertainty.

Today Alawusa, is the founder and head fashion designer of Olabisi O’dunne, a renowned fashion brand located in Lagos, Nigeria, dedicated to creating vintage-inspired, premium bespoke outfits and bridal gowns for eco-conscious brides who value timeless beauty, individuality and sustainability. Specializing in couture-standard, modest wedding dresses, they cater to women who seek to celebrate their distinct differences rather than conform to societal standards on their special day.

Alawusa, an entrepreneur, academic, and creative scholar, started the brand in 2014 with the mission to deliver bespoke fashion that is as beautiful as it is kind to the environment, allowing clients to look and feel extraordinary while embracing their values.

In this interview with IFEOMA OKEKE-KORIEOCHA, she explains that the brand was born out of the frustrations with local tailors whose craftsmanship failed to meet her expectations as a teenager.

Take us through your journey of commencing Bridal designs. What inspired you to commence bridal designs and how long have you been into Bridals ?

Olabisi O’dunne began as a bespoke women’s wear brand called Dune’s Demure in 2014. The name was inspired by the target market and I wanted to provide women with quality, hand-tailored garments made from readily accessible textiles for both everyday wear and traditional events.
Over time, I noticed a pattern: my clients often wore their custom-made outfits only once, hoarding them while continuing to order new ones for every event, as each occasion required a different color or fabric.
Recognising this unsustainable practice, I shifted my focus. Instead of making high-end dresses and casual wear, I began designing versatile, bespoke pieces that could be worn for multiple events, encouraging reusability and mindful consumption.
When many of my clients became brides, they sought out wedding dresses that aligned with their eco-conscious values without sacrificing comfort or style. This led me to start creating custom bridal gowns that incorporated sustainability into the designs, allowing brides to embrace their values on their big day while still feeling beautiful and confident.

By 2020, the Olabisi O’dunne name had grown synonymous with intentional design, impeccable craftsmanship and sustainable luxury. Moving to Canada in 2022 for further studies, I hoped to bring the brand’s ethos to a global audience through collaborations with stockists and exhibitions in Canada. Olabisi O’dunne hopes to continue to redefine what it means to walk down the aisle in a dress that tells a story, not just of love, but of individuality, heritage and sustainability.

What informed the choice of your brand name ‘Olabisi O’dunne’ ?

“Olabisi O’dunne” carries profound significance rooted in my identity as a Nigerian. “Olabisi” is a Yoruba tribal name that translates to “joy multiplies” or “joy brings prosperity.” This name is sentimental to me as both my parents have it as their middle names. It reflects the brand’s character of celebrating momentous occasions, particularly weddings, upholding identity and spreading happiness through its designs and creations.

The last name “O’dunne” is a refined version of my nickname “Dune” which is a derivative of my Yoruba name “Adunola” which means “Sweetness of wealth”. However, it is also coincidentally of Irish origin, adding a layer of cultural diversity and inclusivity to the brand’s identity. Together, the name “Olabisi O’dunne” represents a harmonious blend of joy, prosperity, and cultural diversity, reflecting the brand’s values of celebration, inclusivity, and authenticity.

Where do you draw inspiration from for your collections & designs ?

Firstly, the stories of brides themselves serve as a direction for design evolution, with their unique personalities, values and dreams influencing custom creations that reflect their individuality.

I also draw inspiration from a blend of heritage, and modernity because I am particular about creating designs that resonate with vintage beauty and cultural depth. My collections are often rooted in blending African history and craftsmanship with Western design sensibilities.

Since the brand’s inception, nature has been a profound source of inspiration. The vibrant hues of flowers often translate into the soft silhouettes, textural details, and color palettes in my designs.
Being an aesthete myself, art and architecture influence Olabisi O’dunne’s clean lines, geometric patterns, and innovative structures which inspire the balance between elegance and functionality in each bridal gown.

Looking back at your journey, what has been the most rewarding moment for you as a designer and entrepreneur?

The most rewarding moment so far was being shortlisted by AMVCA as one of the top nine best fashion designers in Nigeria in May 2022. This recognition honored the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship and innovation, particularly during the runway showcase where we presented beautiful garments that had been constructed in alignment with our values as well as the theme of the event. It was a defining moment for me as it affirmed the impact of Olabisi O’dunne’s designs on the Nigerian fashion industry and its global relevance.

More recently, I had the opportunity to showcase at the Black North Initiative in Toronto, Canada, on African Heritage Day in May 2024. The showcase highlighted the brand’s commitment to honoring African heritage while exploring new markets and forging meaningful connections in Canada’s fashion scene.

As an entrepreneur, closing each year with a functional business upheld by the unwavering support of a committed team and loyal clients, as well as the God given ability to create pieces that bring joy, confidence, and a sense of individuality from every client will continue to be the most rewarding part of my job.

What personal challenges have you faced in your journey as a bridal designer entrepreneur, and how have they shaped your business?

One of the earliest challenges was transitioning from my background in biochemistry to establishing a fashion brand. Over the years, with no mentorship or sponsorship, this pursuit required me to learn the fundamentals of design, production, and business management from scratch, which demanded patience in the face of uncertainty.

Another overwhelming challenge is managing the surge in demand during peak wedding season. It used to be difficult to maintain high-quality service and ethical practices with the influx of orders, deadlines, unstable supply of electricity, and inconsistent labour. With conscious personal and professional development over the years, I am now equipped with the knowledge and tenacity to maneuver diverse complicated situations around production.

These challenges have instilled in me a strong sense of adaptability, a quality that now defines my approach to problem-solving and innovation in business.

What are the major misconceptions young people have about success in the fashion industry?

Many young people believe success in fashion comes quickly. They fail to understand that it takes years of toiling and proper planning to achieve the heights and stability renowned businesses have today. If one is not disciplined with a strong mental strength, it will be difficult to sustain a fashion business or any business at all.

There’s also the misconception that fashion is easy because it is perceived through the lens of the final products on social media. Running a fashion business requires hard work, dedication, perseverance and creativity. Coming into the industry with a clear goal will make the journey bearable and worthwhile.

More importantly, there’s an assumption that the only role in fashion is in designing. There are other areas within the industry that don’t require sewing skills but instead focus on other skills like research, marketing, finance, management e.t.c

Understanding your strengths and interests will inform the field in fashion you will best succeed in and help set realistic expectations for the challenges ahead.

What changes have you noticed in your experience of clients choices and demands for bridal wears in the last five years ?

Besides prioritizing comfort, adopting minimalism and opting for non-traditional colors, there is a popular trend around versatility in modern client’s bridal choices. Every section of a bridal dress can now be designed to be convertible to allow for different looks throughout the day. This is known to be more cost effective instead of making different dresses for each ceremony.

Alternatively, there are options that accommodate individuality and sustainability alike. Some brides prefer to customize every design and material detail of their dress(es) to ensure exclusivity, depict their status in society or portray personal or historical narratives. There’s also a growing demand for eco-friendly bridal wear which encourages brides to rent dresses to combat the single-use problem or make simplistic designs that can be incorporated into an existing wardrobe.

Several people have cut down on expenditures for weddings as a result of the tough economic situation. How are you able to work with people’s budget to achieve their dream wedding outfits ?

As a bridal consultant, I advise my clients appropriately on what will be the best option based on their willingness to spend. The bride’s taste and values usually inform what strategies we would offer. It usually revolves around prioritizing key elements but opting for affordable accessories or totally avoiding them. Other times, I suggest to brides to have versatile pieces like a detachable train, cape or sleeves, that will be adaptable throughout the ceremony and reception without the need for multiple outfits.

Also, updating and modernizing an existing dress can be a meaningful and cost-effective option. For brides open to it, I suggest repurposing family heirlooms or vintage dresses.
Lastly, I offer flexible payment plans to make it easier for brides to manage their budget. Spreading out the cost over several months before the completion of the garment can alleviate financial pressure.

Who are your role models and why ?

My foremost role model is Deola Sagoe. She’s a phenomenal haute couture designer who reinvented the Yoruba female cultural attire which has ultimately become a canvas for every modern Nigerian designer today. Her practice incorporates African textiles and techniques to create contemporary designs that celebrate her cultural heritage. She is as much an inspiration as she is an emblem of innovation and creativity in the fashion industry.

Another notable designer I respect is British Designer, Stella McCartney. She is committed to sustainability and ethical practices which are areas I am currently invested in myself. Besides her being an advocate for animal rights and environmental issues, her designs are refreshing and her collaborations with alternative textile companies to produce eco-friendly biomaterials is laudable.

How many wedding outfits have you created since you started and do you have success stories of known celebrities you have designed for ?

I think the brand has made hundreds of wedding dresses since its inception. Putting a figure on it would be a bit difficult since we only started to value data in recent years.

However, we have served thousands of clients from various African countries and worked with top celebrities across Nigeria including Toke Makinwa, Bisola Aiyeola, Beverly Naya, Jessica Obasi, Lotachukwu, Nancy Isime amongst others.

We have also styled several music videos from musicians like Davido, Olamide to Simi and many others as well as Nollywood movies such as 37 to go and Enakhe. These collaborations have been widely praised in the media and set a trend for other designers to tread similar paths. These experiences have been incredibly rewarding, and it’s always an honor to be part of any significant moment either in someone’s life or on a production set.

How is the foreign exchange scarcity affecting your business especially when you have to get accessories from outside the country?

It is indeed a difficult time for businesses with the state of the economy generally. I prioritize sourcing materials and accessories locally whenever possible or source them months ahead. This means I sometimes purchase materials in bulk to take advantage of lower prices and reduce the frequency of transactions. More importantly, I maintain open communication with clients about potential delays or changes due to unprecedented issues and advise them to place their orders at least four months ahead. This helps manage expectations and ensures they are aware of any challenges that may arise.

What have been your most disappointing moments and how has this shaped your business?

One of the most disappointing moments I experienced was when the shipment of a collection I was supposed to showcase abroad was delayed due to unforeseen supply chain issues and production delays. Though I was able to showcase one ensemble, it meant I was unable to present the entire collection as a whole and it therefore fell short of the storytelling. This mishap led to valuable lessons and improvements in the business. Now I build extra time into production schedules to account for potential delays, diversify working with suppliers as well as artisans to allow for reliable alternatives, and I have developed contingency plans to deliver items in or outside the country to prevent poor customer satisfaction.

How important is self-confidence in building a brand, and what strategies do you recommend for young women to boost their confidence?

Confidence allows you to articulate your vision and values clearly making it easier to connect with your clients and marketing audience. For young women choosing to boost their confidence, I advise that you embrace individuality. Our uniqueness sets us apart and we have to learn to capitalize on it. While it’s important to dream big, taking steady steps in the direction of your goal will build a sense of accomplishment. Also, build a network of mentors and friends who inspire you and challenge yourself to take on tasks that push your boundaries. Finally, never stop learning and celebrate yourself on every new milestone when you do.

Where do you see your brand in the next five to 10 years ?

The priority for me in the next few years is expanding my brand’s reach internationally, showcasing collections at exhibitions, major fashion weeks around the world, and establishing a presence in key fashion markets. I’m also quite interested in incorporating advanced technologies such as 3D printing and virtual reality into the design, fitting process and ownership of bridal garments.

Consequently, I hope to launch programs and workshops to mentor tenured local designers who have failed to refine their skills, aspiring designers who have no means to further their education and promote fashion education generally to improve the quality of craftsmanship in the Nigerian fashion industry.

Finally, I aim to be a leader in promoting sustainability and engage in philanthropic efforts, supporting causes related to women’s empowerment, education, and environmental conservation within the fashion industry.

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