The wedding was grand, a spectacle of culture and tradition. Guests arrived adorned in dazzling aso-oke head ties, regal agbada, and vibrant isi-agu—each fabric telling a story of heritage and pride. The bride’s gele stood tall, woven with gold threads shimmering under the Lagos sun. The groom’s agbada, layered and embroidered, commanded attention. The setting was unmistakably Nigerian, a homage to generations past.
Yet, beneath this vibrant display of tradition lay an uncomfortable truth: almost every fabric in sight was imported. The aso-oke? From China. The lace? Shipped from Switzerland. The ankara? Manufactured in the Netherlands. Even the isi-agu, once handwoven by Eastern Nigerian craftsmen, now mostly came from bulk textile factories in India.
Nigeria, a nation rich in textile traditions dating back centuries, had become one of the largest importers of traditional fabrics in Africa. A paradox: the country dresses in the aesthetics of its heritage, yet funds the economies of foreign textile giants.
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The Scale of Import Dependence
The numbers paint a sobering picture. According to the National Bureau of Statistics (NBS), Nigeria spent over $4 billion on textile imports in 2023 alone, making the country one of Africa’s top importers of fabric. Despite once having a thriving textile industry—boasting over 180 textile mills in the 1970s and 1980s, employing more than 500,000 workers—the sector has since collapsed under the weight of foreign competition, smuggling, and policy failures.
By contrast, China’s textile exports to Nigeria alone exceed $2 billion annually. The Netherlands, despite having no indigenous African textile traditions, dominates the Nigerian ankara market through brands like Vlisco, which sells premium wax prints at prices often out of reach for the average Nigerian.
Local production, once the pride of cities like Kaduna, Kano, and Abeokuta, has dwindled to a handful of artisanal workshops struggling to compete with machine-made imports. The erosion of Nigeria’s self-sufficiency in textile production has significant implications, not just for the economy but also for national identity and cultural heritage.
The Economic and Cultural Consequences
The reliance on imports has ripple effects beyond just economic losses.
Job Losses and Industrial Decline
The collapse of Nigeria’s textile industry has led to massive job losses. The Kaduna Textile Mill, once the largest in West Africa, shut down in 2002, throwing thousands into unemployment. Cities that once thrived on weaving and dyeing—Abeokuta for adire, Akwete for handwoven textiles—have seen their industries fade, leaving artisans struggling to pass down their skills to the next generation.
At its peak, the Nigerian textile industry contributed about 25% of manufacturing employment in the country. Today, that number has plummeted to barely 2%, leaving a gap that could be filled by reviving local production.
The Erosion of Cultural Authenticity
Traditional fabrics have always held deep cultural and symbolic meaning. The aso-oke of the Yoruba, the isi-agu of the Igbo, and the atampa of the Efik were once woven with specific motifs that carried family legacies and regional pride. Today, mass-produced fabrics mimic these designs but lack the craftsmanship and meaning behind them. The very identity embedded in traditional Nigerian attire is being outsourced.
Moreover, imported fabrics often lack the durability and quality of authentic local textiles. The handwoven adire from Ogun State, for example, lasts decades, while its synthetic foreign counterpart fades within months. As a result, consumers are constantly forced to repurchase, further benefiting foreign manufacturers at Nigeria’s expense.
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Trade Deficits and Economic Drain
Textile imports are a major contributor to Nigeria’s widening trade deficit. According to the Central Bank of Nigeria (CBN), Nigeria’s trade deficit widened by 21% in 2023, with textile imports playing a significant role. Instead of local industries benefiting from the demand for cultural attire, foreign textile manufacturers reap the profits, sending billions of dollars out of the country.
If just 50% of imported fabrics were produced locally, Nigeria could retain billions within its economy, create thousands of jobs, and stimulate growth in related industries, such as cotton farming and garment manufacturing.
The Path to Local Production and Economic Growth
The good news? Nigeria has the resources, talent, and demand to revive its local textile industry. Here’s how:
1. Reviving Local Textile Manufacturing
Some companies and entrepreneurs are already making strides in revitalising local production:
Aso-Oke Weavers Cooperative (Ogun State): A collective of artisans working to modernise traditional weaving while maintaining cultural authenticity.
Nike Art Gallery & Textile Studio (Lagos): Promoting hand-dyed adire textiles and supporting local dyeing industries.
Da Viva (Nigeria-based brand): Competing with imported ankara by producing high-quality, locally designed wax prints.
Government incentives, such as the CBN’s Textile Revival Fund, have aimed to pump funds into struggling textile mills, but implementation has been slow and bureaucratic. A more aggressive approach—tariffs on imported textiles and subsidies for local producers—could accelerate industry revival.
2. Investing in Cotton Production
Nigeria was once a major cotton producer, with Northern states like Zamfara, Katsina, and Kano supplying raw materials to local mills. Today, cotton farming contributes less than 0.5% to GDP, and most Nigerian-grown cotton is exported rather than processed locally. A targeted investment in cotton farming could provide a stable supply chain for local textile production, reducing dependence on imports.
A revival of the cotton industry could create over 100,000 jobs across the agricultural and manufacturing sectors, positioning Nigeria as a leader in African textile production.
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3. Promoting ‘Made in Nigeria’ Fabrics
A cultural shift is needed. If Nigerians consciously prioritize locally woven fabrics, demand will increase, pushing local businesses to expand. Celebrities, influencers, and policymakers can champion “Made in Nigeria” fabrics, much like how Ghana has successfully revived its kente industry through strong cultural and government support.
4. Weaving a Stronger Future
Nigeria stands at a crossroads. The nation can continue to wear imported symbols of its own culture, enriching foreign textile industries while local weavers struggle to survive. Or, it can embrace and invest in its own textile heritage, creating jobs, boosting the economy, and ensuring that future generations wear fabrics woven with authenticity and national pride.
A return to locally made fabrics isn’t just an economic necessity—it’s a cultural and national imperative. The next time you step out in aso-oke, agbada, or isi-agu, ask yourself: was this made in Nigeria? And if not—why?
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