Africa has emerged as a vibrant and dynamic force in the ever-evolving landscape of global fashion. Driven by creativity, innovation, and a deep connection to cultural heritage, the continent’s rich textile traditions, bold aesthetics, and resilient entrepreneurial spirit have captivated the attention of fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
At the forefront of this movement is Omoyemi Akerele, a pioneering figure in Nigerian fashion and the founder of Style House Files and Lagos Fashion Week. With a career spanning over two decades, Akerele has been instrumental in shaping the narrative of African fashion, championing sustainability, and fostering opportunities for emerging designers.
Lagos Fashion Week bridge key gaps and create opportunities for designers
Through her tireless advocacy and innovative initiatives, Akerele has played a pivotal role in promoting African fashion globally, while also addressing the industry’s most pressing challenges. Her work has been recognized by international platforms like the British Fashion Council, and she has collaborated with numerous stakeholders to drive positive change within the African fashion ecosystem.
From her efforts to promote African designers on the global stage to her advocacy for policy changes and infrastructure development, Akerele’s perspectives offer a nuanced understanding of the complexities and opportunities within the African fashion ecosystem.
How did your background in law influence your transition into the fashion industry?
My background in international economic law has influenced my approach to the fashion industry. I see fashion as a tool for driving sustainable development and socio-economic growth, not just artistic expression. My legal training has honed my critical thinking, balanced opinion-forming, and consideration of multiple perspectives – essential skills for navigating the complex fashion ecosystem.
The fashion industry is crucial for achieving sustainable development goals, particularly in responsible production, job creation, and environmental stewardship. My legal background informs my exploration of how the sector can address challenges like circularity, waste management, and trade partnerships while driving economic growth.
This perspective has shaped initiatives like Lagos Fashion Week, where we’ve championed sustainability, circular economy principles, and African creativity on the global stage. By combining legal insight with creative strategy, I advocate for systemic change and demonstrate the fashion industry’s potential for impactful, long-term development.
What sparked your passion for promoting Nigerian and African fashion globally?
My journey to promote Nigerian and African fashion globally began during my tenure as Fashion Editor at True Love West Africa magazine. Witnessing the incredible talent and creativity of African designers was both inspiring and humbling. Their work showcased not only artistic skill but also rich cultural narratives.
However, I also saw firsthand the challenges they faced in accessing global markets and gaining international recognition. This realization sparked a purpose-driven vision within me – to create opportunities for African-owned fashion businesses to gain global recognition, economic empowerment, and environmental responsibility.
For the past seventeen years, this vision has driven my work. I’ve focused on building an ecosystem that showcases the richness of African creativity while contributing to socio-economic development and sustainability. Through initiatives like Lagos Fashion Week and partnerships emphasizing sustainability and ethics, we’ve worked to position African fashion as a competitive force in the global industry – celebrated not only for its cultural heritage but also for its value and relevance.
Can you share your experience working with celebrities and styling TV shows like Big Brother and Idols West Africa?
My styling experience was a thrilling yet demanding journey. It began at True Love magazine, where I honed my skills in editorial styling and image consulting for corporate clients. Later, I co-founded a company with Bola Balogun, working on high-profile TV shows like Big Brother, Idols West Africa, and Deal or No Deal.
Styling in those early days was exciting but also fraught with challenges. The market was still in its infancy, and many brands and stores didn’t grasp the concept of styling or the importance of providing sample pieces. I recall a particularly frustrating incident with a store that demanded payment for an outfit worn by a celebrity, despite their prior commitment to purchase it. The ordeal was traumatic, but it ultimately led to a strong working relationship between the celebrity and the store.
In those days, pulling pieces for shoots required persuasion and resourcefulness. Long hours on set meant handling everything from production tasks to minor details like tying shoelaces. Looking back, it’s remarkable to see how far the industry has evolved. Today, brands and stores eagerly collaborate with stylists, offering a wealth of options for celebrities. This shift is a testament to the styling industry’s growth and maturity.
What inspired you to found Style House Files, and how has the agency impacted the African fashion industry?
The idea for Style House Files was born out of a profound passion for showcasing African talent and creating opportunities for designers to succeed both locally and globally. My experiences at True Love magazine and working closely with designers and stylists gave me a unique understanding of the African fashion industry’s untapped potential and the barriers that hindered its global reach.
I was driven to bridge these gaps and build a platform that would champion African creativity, empower designers, and foster sustainability in the industry. Over the years, Style House Files has played a pivotal role in transforming perceptions of African fashion. Through initiatives like Lagos Fashion Week, we’ve provided designers with a platform to showcase their work, facilitated access to markets, and emphasized the importance of ethical and sustainable practices.
Our work has helped shift the narrative around African fashion, highlighting its exceptional craftsmanship, innovation, and potential to compete on the world stage. Beyond runway shows, we’ve developed capacity-building programs, collaborations, and initiatives that drive socio-economic development and cultural diplomacy. Style House Files is more than just a fashion platform – it’s a catalyst for change, using fashion as a tool to empower communities, promote cultural exchange, and drive sustainable growth.
How did you envision Lagos Fashion Week, and what has been its most significant achievement?
When I first conceived Lagos Fashion Week, I saw it as a straightforward solution to address the challenges facing the African fashion industry. I envisioned a platform that would bridge key gaps and create opportunities for designers. However, over the years, while Lagos Fashion Week has undoubtedly become a pivotal stepping stone for the industry, it has also shed light on the complexity and depth of those challenges.
This realization has made our role even more critical, driving us to expand our focus beyond showcasing talent to addressing the underlying issues. We’ve worked to close gaps, connect the dots, and contribute to meaningful change within the ecosystem. Today, Lagos Fashion Week has evolved into a dynamic platform that fosters innovation, sustainability, and global recognition for African fashion.
While its impact on the industry is multifaceted, Lagos Fashion Week’s most significant achievement lies in its ability to inspire collaboration, push boundaries, and pave the way for a stronger, more resilient industry. By doing so, we’ve created a powerful catalyst for change, one that will continue to drive the growth and development of African fashion for years to come.
How do you curate the designers and brands featured at Lagos Fashion Week?
Curating designers and brands for Lagos Fashion Week is a meticulous process that requires careful consideration. We seek out designers who embody the richness and diversity of African fashion, while also aligning with our core values of innovation, craftsmanship, and sustainability.
Our selection process involves identifying designers with a unique perspective, whether through their storytelling, design techniques, or approach to addressing pressing issues like ethical production and circularity. We also assess their readiness to scale, commitment to building robust business models, and potential to engage with both local and global markets.
Through initiatives like Fashion Focus and Green Access, we provide emerging talent with mentorship, exposure, and growth opportunities. Our goal is to foster a community of designers who are pushing the boundaries of African fashion, challenging conventions, and contributing meaningfully to the industry’s future.
Ultimately, Lagos Fashion Week serves as a platform for visionary designers who are redefining the African fashion landscape. By showcasing their work and providing a springboard for growth, we aim to propel the industry forward, driving innovation, sustainability, and global recognition for African fashion.
Your initiatives, such as Woven Threads and Green Access, focus on sustainability and craftsmanship. Can you elaborate on their importance?
Woven Threads and Green Access were born out of a pressing need to address the fashion industry’s most critical issues: sustainability, responsible production, and the preservation of craftsmanship. These initiatives occupy a vital space where creativity, culture, and environmental consciousness intersect, laying the groundwork for a more equitable and resilient fashion ecosystem.
Woven Threads serves as a showcase for sustainable innovation, highlighting upcycling, circular design, and the use of eco-friendly materials. By sharing the stories behind the clothes, we emphasize that sustainability is not just a buzzword, but a practice deeply rooted in African traditions of resourcefulness and ingenuity.
Green Access, meanwhile, focuses on nurturing emerging talent committed to sustainable practices. By equipping young designers with the tools and knowledge to create responsibly, we’re empowering a new generation to redefine African fashion on the global stage.
These initiatives are crucial, as they tackle urgent environmental challenges while elevating African craftsmanship and creativity. They demonstrate that fashion can be a powerful vehicle for positive change, driving a more sustainable, equitable, and culturally rich industry.
How do you think the African fashion industry can balance growth with environmental responsibility?
The African fashion industry stands at a critical juncture, poised to balance growth with environmental responsibility. Leveraging our cultural heritage, traditional practices, and innovative spirit, we can forge a unique path to sustainable development. Our rich history of resourcefulness, up cycling, and crafting with purpose provides a solid foundation for this journey.
To achieve sustainable growth, education and capacity-building are paramount. Designers and businesses must be equipped with the knowledge and tools to adopt circular practices, embracing sustainable materials, reducing waste, and investing in eco-friendly production technologies. Initiatives like Green Access and Woven Threads play a vital role in promoting sustainability and craftsmanship, encouraging responsible innovation.
Collaboration is also essential, with governments, private sectors, and global partners working together to create policies and infrastructures that support responsible manufacturing and ethical trade. Furthermore, consumers must be part of the conversation, recognizing the value of consciously supporting African brands that prioritize sustainability.
Ultimately, the African fashion industry’s path to growth is not about replicating Western models; it’s about redefining sustainable growth, rooted in our values of community, creativity, and environmental respect. By embracing our unique heritage and traditions, we can create a thriving, responsible, and distinctly African fashion industry.
What was it like working with international fashion weeks like London Fashion Week and Pitti Immagine?
My experience collaborating with international fashion platforms like London Fashion Week and Pitti Immagine has been enriching. Notably, Lagos Fashion Week partnered with the British Fashion Council and the British Council on the International Fashion Showcase, serving as the Nigerian partner for four consecutive years. This partnership provided a platform for over 15 designers, including a winning showcase curated by Yegwa Ukpo. Many of our designers’ collections received recognition for innovation and creativity.
As a voting committee member for The British Fashion Awards for the past five years, I’ve deepened my engagement with the global fashion community. In 2014, we were honored to be invited as a guest nation at Pitti Uomo, showcasing five designers. This opportunity paved the way for meaningful collaborations, including designers showcasing under the Vogue Talent umbrella, partnering with beauty brands, and accessing new markets.
These international partnerships have been invaluable for fostering cultural exchange, driving growth, and contributing to the global recognition of African fashion. By engaging with international audiences, learning from best practices, and exploring collaboration opportunities, designers and stakeholders can propel the African fashion industry forward.
How did your experience on the advisory committee for MoMA’s “Items: Is Fashion Modern?” exhibition impact your perspective on African fashion?
Serving on the advisory committee for MoMA’s Items: Is Fashion Modern? exhibition was a highlight of my career. Alongside esteemed experts Valerie Steele and Bandana Tewari, I worked closely with the curatorial team to ensure the exhibition accurately captured the cultural, historical, and social significance of iconic fashion items.
The inclusion of Kente cloth from Ghana was particularly noteworthy, highlighting the importance of African textiles and craftsmanship in shaping global fashion narratives. As a committee member, I contributed two keynotes, participated in a panel discussion, and attended various meetings leading up to the exhibition.
This experience reinforced my conviction that African fashion is a vital part of global cultural heritage, extending far beyond aesthetics. Exhibitions like Items: Is Fashion Modern? provide a crucial platform to showcase the depth, diversity, and innovation within African fashion, challenging perceptions and ensuring it receives the recognition it deserves on the global stage.
As a leader in the African fashion industry, what advice would you give to emerging designers and entrepreneurs?
To emerging designers and entrepreneurs, I offer the following advice: remain true to your unique vision while embracing opportunities for growth and innovation. The African fashion industry is at a critical juncture, with growing recognition of its potential to shape global trends. To capitalize on this momentum, focus on sustainability, authenticity, and quality craftsmanship.
First, develop a solid understanding of the business side of fashion. Building a strong brand, knowing your market, and creating scalable systems are just as crucial as creativity. Never underestimate the power of collaboration – partnerships, mentorships, and initiatives like those offered by Lagos Fashion Week can provide invaluable resources, exposure, and opportunities.
Finally, be patient and persistent. Success in fashion can be elusive and challenging, but with determination, a commitment to continuous learning, and a focus on contributing to the ecosystem’s growth, you can make a lasting impact. Africa’s fashion landscape is evolving, and there’s a place for everyone dedicated to shaping its future.
Can you share your experience as a speaker at international conferences like Business Of Fashion (BOF) Voices and Global Fashion Agenda’s Copenhagen Fashion Summit?
I find speaking at international conferences like Business of Fashion (BOF) Voices and Global Fashion Agenda’s Copenhagen Fashion Summit incredibly enriching. These platforms allow me to engage with global thought leaders, share Africa’s evolving fashion narrative, and advocate for greater representation from the continent.
My primary focus at these conferences is ensuring that African stakeholders, particularly those with firsthand experience, are heard and valued. Despite the vast knowledge, creativity, and expertise within Africa’s fashion ecosystem, it often remains underrepresented in global discussions.
Through my participation in these forums, I highlight the innovations, challenges, and opportunities within African fashion, with a focus on sustainability, ethical practices, and market access. I also emphasize the importance of collaboration, as the global fashion industry can no longer afford to overlook Africa’s role in shaping the future of fashion.
Every conversation and panel I’ve participated in has been an opportunity to advocate for Africa’s place in the global fashion dialogue. I remain committed to amplifying African voices on the international stage, ensuring that our unique perspectives and contributions are recognized and valued.
What are some of the biggest challenges facing the African fashion industry, and how can they be addressed?
The African fashion industry faces numerous challenges that hinder its growth and global recognition. Key obstacles include limited access to funding and resources, which restricts designers’ and entrepreneurs’ ability to scale their businesses and expand into broader markets.
Another significant challenge is the fragmented supply chain infrastructure. Designers struggle to access quality raw materials, and production delays are common due to inadequate local manufacturing capacity. Furthermore, African designers face limited access to international markets and visibility, as global fashion platforms have historically focused on established Western markets.
The industry must also address the growing need for sustainable and ethical production practices. This is crucial for responsible development and positive contributions to the environment and society.
To overcome these challenges, a concerted effort is necessary to provide emerging designers with greater access to funding, mentorship, and resources. Investing in local manufacturing infrastructure is vital for improving supply chains and enabling African designers to produce high-quality, sustainable fashion.
Fostering collaborations and partnerships with global stakeholders, as well as advocating for policy changes that support the industry, will also facilitate access to new markets. Promoting sustainability through education and practical initiatives will ensure the growth of African fashion is both economically successful and environmentally responsible.
How do you think the African fashion industry can capitalize on the growing global interest in African culture and creativity?
To capitalize on the growing global interest in African culture and creativity, the African fashion industry must leverage its unique cultural narratives, craftsmanship, and innovative design. This involves promoting the rich diversity and authenticity of African fashion, showcasing the stories, traditions, and skills embedded in designs.
Platforms like Lagos Fashion Week, Woven Threads, and Green Access amplify African voices, providing designers with visibility and showcasing African fashion as a sustainable and culturally significant force in the global fashion ecosystem.
The industry should focus on expanding market access by building strong retail partnerships within Africa and internationally, leveraging AFCFTA and collaborations with global brands, retailers, and platforms. This enables African designers to showcase their work in global fashion capitals, accessing new customers, markets, and growth opportunities.
Investing in sustainable practices is also crucial. By embracing eco-friendly production methods, local sourcing, and circular design principles, African designers can position themselves as leaders in sustainability, creating high-quality, ethical fashion.
Finally, strengthening infrastructure is vital. This requires investment in supply chain development and capacity-building initiatives for emerging designers. The goal is to ensure African fashion is not only celebrated globally but also sustainable and scalable on the global stage.
What drives your passion for promoting African fashion and creativity?
My passion for promoting African fashion and creativity stems from the industry’s potential to drive economic and social change, while celebrating African culture’s richness and diversity. Despite witnessing incredible talent, craftsmanship, and innovation from the continent, I’ve seen it underrepresented, underserved, and underdeveloped. This fuels my desire to amplify African fashion as a powerful tool for economic empowerment, sustainability, and cultural preservation.
Through initiatives like Lagos Fashion Week, Green Access, and Woven Threads, I’m committed to creating platforms that elevate the industry. By highlighting African fashion’s unique stories and practices, we can transform the global fashion landscape into a more inclusive and diverse space.
Fashion is a bridge between cultures, fostering understanding and appreciation of Africa’s contributions to global creativity. It’s a means to reshape perceptions, celebrate heritage, and drive conversations about sustainability, ethics, and responsible business practices.
Ultimately, my vision is for a thriving African fashion industry that’s globally recognized, economically empowered, and a force for positive change.
How do you balance your creative vision with the business demands of running Style House Files and Lagos Fashion Week?
Managing the creative vision and business demands of Style House Files and Lagos Fashion Week requires prioritizing and adapting to pressing needs. It’s about being organized, ensuring that creative, business development, and operational aspects support each other.
Working with a strong, capable team that understands the vision is crucial. They execute ideas, bringing them to life, while the creative vision drives the business side, creating brand value and attracting partnerships.
Our chairman, Tokunbo Akerele, plays a vital strategic role in ensuring both creative and business priorities are addressed. He develops solid business cases for initiatives and structures partnerships with corporate sponsors, ensuring mutual benefits.
What are your plans for the future of Lagos Fashion Week and Style House Files?
The future of Lagos Fashion Week and Style House Files is centered on driving systemic change in the African fashion industry. Our vision involves advocating for policies that foster industry growth, ensuring designers have access to funding, infrastructure, and tools to scale their businesses.
We plan to expand Lagos Fashion Week into a platform that showcases African design, facilitates market access, and provides strategic support for designers. This includes influencing policy changes, offering funding opportunities, and fostering infrastructure development for production, distribution, and sustainable practices.
Style House Files will focus on education and skills development, helping designers build sustainable business models and understand global markets. We’ll also prioritize integrating technology into the fashion ecosystem, offering solutions that streamline processes, improve efficiency, and boost global market access.
By addressing policy, funding, infrastructure, education, and technology, we aim to create a sustainable, vibrant ecosystem for African fashion. Our goal is to equip designers for success and position the industry for global recognition, driving creativity, economic growth, and social change across Africa.
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