AT AKOKO, an upscale restaurant in central London, Nigerian staples such as moi-moi, stodgy bean pudding, and mosa, a savoury doughnut made from overripe plantain, become fine dining. Staff shuttle steaming bowls of jollof rice across the restaurant to clients paying 120 pounds for a tasting menu, plus another 95 pounds for a wine pairing. A shorter 55 pounds lunch menu exists for the time-pressed, the tightwads and those husbanding expense accounts. This year Akoko won its first Michelin star. It was joined by Chishuru, another Nigerian joint.